Rafi and I love our gardening.
There are in the balcony:
1. Cedrus atlantica «Glauca Pendula»
2. Juniperus chinensis «Blue Alps»
3. Abies bornmuelleriana «Compacta»
They are Conifers.
Conifers are a diverse group of plants, ranging from tiny dwarf specimens to the tallest trees known. They date back to a time before flowering plants existed. They are mainly cone-bearing plants, the cones may appear to be like tiny berries or enormous cones that can be lethal if one lands on your head.
They are mostly evergreen and often have narrow needle-like leaves or leaf-scales. The foliage comes in a colour in tones of greens, blues and yellows. Some are variegated and some are a different colour in winter and summer.
Also, we have indoor plants.
Dracaena marginata is an attractive, stiff-leaved plant with colorful foliage that sometimes goes by the name dragon tree. Most of the time, though, it’s sold simply as “Dracaena marginata” or just “Dracaena.” These are tough, drought-tolerant plants with aggressive root systems that make excellent houseplants—they are a little more forgiving than some of the other dracaena. It helps that they’re attractive and varied. They are sometimes grown as single-stemmed plants; other times grouped or even braided together in the same pot.
Growing Conditions:
Light: Relatively bright light.
Water: Allow the plants to dry between waterings, but not completely. These are more susceptible to root rot, so be very careful never to allow them to sit in water.
Temperature: They thrive between 65ºF and 80ºF. They will suffer if it gets too cold and cannot tolerate freezing.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: They have a lower need for fertilizer, so fertilizer lightly at the beginning of spring or twice a year with controlled-release fertilizer.
Propagation:
D. marginata roots easily from root tip cuttings—so easily that it’s often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers. It takes about three weeks for a cutting to sprout roots, and rooting hormone isn’t generally necessary.
Sometimes called umbrella plants, the schefflera (Schefflera actinophylla) is a popular houseplant that tolerates a lot of neglect and still thrives. Scheffleras are native to Australia and the Pacific Islands where they grow to more than 30 feet tall, have multiple trunks and foliage only at the top of the tree, according to the Australian Native Plants Society. In the home, pruning the schefflera will keep it compact and within a reasonable height.
Step 1
Place the schefflera in an area of the home that receives bright light, but not direct sun. The temperature should be between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Water the schefflera when the soil is dry. Add only enough water to the soil to barely moisten it.
Step 3
Fertilize the schefflera once every two months with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength during the winter. Water the soil before fertilizing.
Step 4
Prune the schefflera to produce more foliage on the lower portions of the plant. Stalks without leaves can be cut to within 3 to 4 inches of the soil. Cut stalks with foliage to just below the lowest one. This may force the schefflera to produce foliage lower on the stalk.
Beaucarnea recurvata, or Ponytail Palm, is native to Mexico. Beacarneas are closely related to Yuccas and thrive under the same conditions. Plants have dark green, grass-like leaves that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide by 6 foot (2 m) long. They have swollen bases for water storage and can store water up to 1 year. Plants in nature will reach about 30 feet (10 m) in height with a base about 12 feet (4 m) across. In containers, they will only reach about 8 foot (2.5 m) in height. They make an excellent houseplant if they are not over-watered.
Blooming Time: Only very old trees will produce this plant's inconspicuous creamy-white flowers.
Culture: Beaucarnea recurvata need full sun to light shade, with a well drained soil mix. We use a soil mix consisting of 2 parts loam to 1 part peat moss to 2 parts sand. To this mix, we add small gravel to ensure good drainage. In a container, they are very slow growing and very drought tolerant. We water ours every 3 weeks during the growing season and fertilize it only once during this period. During the winter months, the plants are watered only enough to keep the foliage from wilting (this usually equates to 1 dose of water during the winter). Over-watering is the single most frequent cause of failure when growing Beaucarneas.
Propagation: Beaucarnea recurvata are propagated by the removal of offsets and by seed. Seed is sown in the spring and will germinate at 68° F (20° C).
One of the most common varieties of Ficus offered over the internet as well as in many department and box stores is the 'Ginseng Ficus' also called 'Pot Bellied Ficus' as well as many other common names. Ginseng refers to the "trunk's" similar look to a Ginseng plants roots. It is in reality just one of the many varieties of Ficus microcarpa, also called Ficus retusa.
Ficus microcarpa is found in many different varieties when it is derived from seedling stock. Seedlings of microcarpa vary widely in leaf size, color, texture, bark color as well as the inherited tendency to form large fleshy turnip-like roots.
A typical Ginseng Ficus plant has two or more large roots that have been elevated above the soil level to create what appears to be a trunk and then a cluster of branches arising out of the roots. A foliage canopy is perched over the roots to finish off the bonsai.
The elevated roots can look like human legs or animals or many other possible things. Those who purchase these plants are often fascinated by the myriad of puzzling forms exhibited by the roots. Others seem puzzled by how to shape these into more traditional looking bonsai with a trunk and typical branching patterns.
One possibility to try if you wish a conventional looking bonsai is to repot the tree moving the large fleshy roots to parallel the soil surface and then covering most of the horizontal roots with soil to conceal the major bulk of the roots below soil level. Expose only some of the surface of the roots to create an elegantly large rootage.
If the large roots are removed and only the fine roots are allowed to remain, these fine roots will enlarge over time to recreate the same problem.
Probably the best approach is to simply enjoy the tree for its unusual and unique features.
Light
· Ginseng ficus trees thrive in warm, tropical and subtropical weather. They grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zone 10 and Zone 11, according to the University of Florida. Ginseng ficus trees can grow in full sun, partial sun or partial shade, but they will not grow well in full shade. As bonsai, this species of ficus will tolerate low-light levels better than most types of ficus plants, but it will grow best if exposed to as much bright sunlight as possible.
Soil and Water
· Ginseng ficus trees can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, including both acidic and alkaline soils, as long as they are well-drained. They can also grow in moderately salty soils. These trees can withstand drought conditions and do not usually need supplemental watering. Indoor container trees prefer to be watered only when the soil dries out.
Fertilizer
· Ginseng ficus trees should only be fed during the active growing season, according to the Bonsai4me website. Stop feeding in the winter or if the plant is showing signs of illness, such as dropped leaves or wilting. Fertilize these trees with a balanced (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) or nitrogen-rich, water-soluble fertilizer twice a month.
Maintenance
· Pruning is necessary to maintain a strong support structure for the large, wide canopy of the tree, according to the University of Florida. These trees are known for their ability to recover from even severe pruning, which is another reason why they are often chosen as bonsai. Outdoor trees should be trained to one leader (trunk) and monitored for broken branches and suckers, which should be removed. Bonsai trees should be shaped according to the grower's particular preferences. Indoor ginseng ficus trees should be monitored for common indoor plant pests such as spider mites and gnats, which won't hurt the tree but can become an annoyance.
Florarium
Our Florarium is simple and not ready yet.
History of florarium goes into the 19 century. Then it was fashionable to plant ferns between window frames. Thus, the aristocracy ensured himself a great view from the window, instead of the dull gray of the streets.
What is florarium? Florarium - is a transparent vessel made of glass or plastic from plants. This may be a closed flower shop window with additional lighting, humidification and heating plants of tropical rain forest, and maybe just an old aquarium or big beautiful bottle, or some other closed container.
Now the fashion of Florarium returns. However, now they can grow to more exotic and demanding plants, as ferns. This was made possible thanks to modern technology (additional lighting adjustable heating and watering, spraying with fountains. In Florarium plants can easily create conditions close to their native climate: plants grow better, and less hassle for the florist. But the most important advantage of
Florarium - a decorative effect. Reproduced in miniature, a bright little world of the rainforest that were introduced into our homes, make an attractive and unique to any interior.
Having conceived the establishment of tropical jungle home, first think over, and draw a better style of an exotic world of the future. For a start see movies or pictures in the tropics of the world. Look at how plants grow in nature in the tropics, as combined in size, color, biological features. What elements of decor, besides the plant themselves, you will need: a variety of stones, driftwood, moss, bark coir, bamboo sticks, artificial insects, etc. In your decorative Florarium can contain plants from all over the planet, more importantly, that they live in harmony and have the same conditions. See how they harmonize with each other in color and texture of leaves, the height and size.
The most commonly used plants for Florarium: miniature Saintpaulia (mini - African violet), Fitonia, beautiful Orchids, Alocasia, Bromeliads, Azaleas, Cyclamen, Pilea, Selaginella, Ferns Ivy, Episcia, Dieffenbachia, and others can make a garden of Cactus (Succulent), but then it is not necessary to add moisture - loving plants.
Florarium can fit any aquarium or a glass jar of any size. Registration begins with the background. Background can be bought ready or do it yourself. Experienced florists manage to adhere to rear and side walls of mosses and epiphytes, or glued decorative pebbles, sand, seashells and more.
Then decorate the bottom: creating the landscape of future composition. Rocks, driftwood and sand, the key elements of the composition. Size, shape and color of these decorative elements of the composition. Size, shape and color of these decorative elements are unique. But do not forget about the hygiene of the future Florarium. It is these elements can be a source of dangerous plant fungi, bacteria and insects. Snags boil in a saturated solution of sodium chloride 8-12 hours, then boiled for 4-6 hours in ordinary water, changing it every hour. Stones, coarse sand and shells are also boiled in water for 2-3 hours. Then, from stones, driftwood and other decorative elements create a unique world that will delight you and amaze your guests. But we need to observe certain rules.
Layer of soil must be at least five or six inches. Primer is divided into decorative and nutritious. Nourishing the soil the plants will serve as a source of minerals and decorative to hide nutritious soil. Nourishing soil is chosen to meet the need of plants planted. If plants are planted directly into pots, then hiding ground under decorative ground will be easier, but planting in pots, doesn't always allow to reproduce the natural landscape. More pluses planting in pots, in this case it easier to change the location of plants in Florarium if the composition is very successful. If you still chose planting directly into the nutrient soil, located across the bottom of the Florarium, then there is one secret of how to mace a neat appearance when the nutrient is absolutely necessary, mix with a decorative ground: on top of the nutrient soil is placed polymer mesh with openings for planting, and just poured on a decorative ground. When changing the plants or other transplants, the plant gently gets through the hole, and plant something else: the extraction on the surface of the soil nutrient is the minimum. The latest stage of planting, is planting mosses and epiphytes on the snags.
Ones planted all the plants and their decorate colored ground, bring to perfection embellishment: decorate the landscape with stones, shells and other beauty. If Florarium has plants, it is desirable either to put it closer to the bright light but not direct sunlight, or - to place lamp directly above Florarium optimally - in the from of cover. Then you'll get a closed ecosystem, and the flowers will feel the best way.
Along with the technical equipment Florarium now popular and so-called "bottle gardens", which is nothing like plants, planted in bottle or other container in which is maintained higher humidity than ambient humidity of the vessel environment, but thus, no extra lights and heaters. True range of plants that can exist comfortably in conditions narrows.
No wonder this showy Fittonia species is aptly nicknamed Mosaic Plant! Its intricately-designed leaves with contrasting coloured veins will provide a marvelous mosaic display that will attract and captivate all season through!
These beautiful ornamental foliage plants make great houseplants, especially if displayed on bathroom shelves or bookshelves in shallow containers with their branches cascading down! Also wonderful when grown outdoors as plant fillers for garden beds or as groundcovers in tropical and warmer regions!
Avocado trees are as beautiful as the ficus benjamina or a citrus tree and will take similar care. Place itor them near a sunny window, prune and pinch back as needed and these trees will look beautiful!
Мango trees grow best outdoors in warm, tropical environments, they can still be grown indoors if you have a large, sunny area to nurture it and let it grow tall. Sunshine is the key to success in growing mangos.
Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) is a genus of about 40 species of rhizomatous evergreen plants in the family Araceae, native to the tropical swamps and rainforests of southeastern Asia.
They are herbaceous perennial plants growing to 20-150 cm in height. The leaves are alternate on the stems, lanceolate to narrowly ovate, dark to medium green, 10-45 cm long and 4-16 cm broad, depending on the species. The flowers are relatively inconspicuous, white or greenish-white spathes that can give way to red berries.
The sap is poisonous to humans. It causes skin irritation. If ingested, the sap causes irritation of the mouth, lips, throat and tongue.
Also, we have a very interesting exotic plant, it call Venus flytrap. I'd like to describe to you about this a marvelous exotic plant more.
When you first receive your Venus Flytraps, if they were shipped bare root, carefully unwrap any packing material and soak the whole plant (leaves, roots and all) in only pure distilled water, collected rain water or reverse osmosis water (don't use tap water! it can easily damage the sensitive roots of Venus Flytraps) for 15 minutes to half an hour. If you don't yet have some distilled, reverse osmosis or rain water, just leave the plant(s) in the bag in a place away from direct sunlight for a while until you are able to obtain pure water, but open the bag momentarily for a fresh air change before closing the bag again.
Planting media — Until you learn what alternative planting media will also work, plant them in a mixture of 50% pure sphagnum peat moss and 50% silica sand or perlite. If you can't obtain sand that is composed of almost pure silica (such as sandblasting or pool filter sand and not river nor beach nor desert nor sandbox "play" sand), then use perlite instead of sand. Warning: do not use Miracle-Gro brand sphagnum peat moss nor perlite; they are "enriched" with plant food that may kill Venus Flytraps. If you're unable to find any suitable media for your plant locally, you can purchase Venus Flytrap planting soil from the store.
Planting container — Do not plant Venus Flytraps in terrariums or other clear containers or containers that have sides that extend several inches or more above the surface of the potting medium "soil," unless you plan to grow them completely out of direct sunlight with only fluorescent or other "grow lights"; direct sunlight entering through the clear sides of such containers can quickly heat both the soil and the air around the plant to such a degree that plants’ roots or leaves can easily be damaged or killed. Use glazed ceramic, plastic or insulating polyurethane foam planting containers that have a drainage hole and are at least 4 inches deep, and preferably 6-8 inches deep. You can plant several Venus Flytraps together in a larger container. Venus Flytraps like lots of depth for their roots and will grow larger and healthier with this extra room. Plant them so that the rhizome or "bulb" (the whitish, swollen part just above the roots) is buried into the planting medium while the green part of the leaves is above the surface.
Water
Use only rainwater, distilled water or reverse osmosis water. Venus Flytraps require very pure water. Your tap water is likely to be too high in dissolved solids—minerals and salts—that may kill a Venus Flytrap, possibly within weeks. Always keep your Venus Flytraps moist, but never soggy for long, and never dry. One way to accomplish this is to water thoroughly from the top or by allowing water to soak into the medium from the bottom through the drainage hole, and then allow the planting medium to dry until it is just moist before watering again. Although some people recommend it, I personally don't like to place Venus Flytrap containers in a tray of water for hours or days unless it's absolutely necessary to prevent them from drying out while unattended (such as when you are taking a vacation or trip for a few days). When Venus Flytraps are very wet, they should also be warm and in the sun. Wet and cold is unhealthy (just like it is for people) and can cause fungal infections, rot and even death.
Soil
Venus Flytraps must have a particular kind of soil that is poor in nutrients and slightly acidic. They will very likely die in "potting soil" or soil from your garden or yard. Their soil must be like the soil in their natural habitat: acidic and with almost no nutrients, moisture retentive but well drained. Until you learn what various types of ingredients you can have in their soil (from research on the Internet or from books, for example), it is best to use pure shagnum peat moss (no other kind of "moss") mixed with a more or less equal amount of silica sand (not beach or river or "play" sand) and/or perlite.
Sun
Venus Flytraps are sun lovers, and in general, the more direct bright sunlight you give them, the healthier they will be. However, if the sides of a planter become very hot in full sun, try to cool the planter so that the roots don't overheat or burn. One way to do this without depriving the Venus Flytrap of the sun it wants and needs, is to place the planting container inside another larger container, with perlite filling the space between the two to insulate the inside container. Another way is to plant the Venus Flytrap in a styrofoam container (like a 16 or 20 ounce insulated beverage cup) or in a polyurethane foam planter.
Fertilizer
No! Never! Although experienced growers can occasionally fertilize Venus Flytraps lightly using special techniques such as foliar feeding, Venus Flytraps will probably die when fertilized by beginner growers, for the same reason that they usually die from tap water: too many minerals and chemicals. These burn the plants' roots and kill them. Venus Flytraps get all the nutrition they need from the sun (through photosynthesis like any plant) and from the insects they catch. If they are healthy and if you put them outside sometimes to "hunt," they will catch insects on their own. You can also feed them captured flies or other insects (but not meat!). It helps to place a captured fly in a glass bottle that is very cold for a few minutes to make the fly lethargic. Use tweezers to hold the drowsy fly by a wing, then place the fly in a trap and move it a little to stimulate the trigger hairs near the middle of the trap, which should cause a healthy trap to close. Don't close the traps over and over again, because each trap must grow a very particular way to be able to close, and can only snap shut a few times (perhaps half a dozen) before it won't respond anymore.
Dormancy
Venus Flytraps must have a rest period of a few months every year. When the days become shorter and cooler in the Fall, the plants begin to slow down, not grow as much, and the traps begin to be sluggish. During dormancy Venus Flytraps should be kept cool. Although the plants can survive light frosts and brief freezing, it is better to keep them above freezing: 40°F to about 55°F degrees at night is sufficiently cool, and they can be warmer at times during the day, but should be cool to cold most of the time. An unheated porch or garage can work for most people. Venus fly traps should not be watered nearly as often because they don't need nor use as much water during their dormancy. Carefully cut off any traps that turn black. This is natural. Venus Flytrap leaves, like all plants' leaves, eventually die and are replaced by fresh leaves in time. During dormancy a healthy Venus Flytrap can look almost dead on top, but assuming it has not dried out completely nor rotted from too much water, it is healthy and will begin to grow vigorously again sometime in the Spring. At that time it will appreciate being placed in warmer conditions and watered more frequently again.
Sansevieria
Typically, hard leaved Sansevieria originate from arid climates, while the soft leaved species originate from tropical and subtropical regions. Hard leaved Sansevieria have a number of adaptations for surviving dry regions. These include thick, succulent leaves for storing water and thick leaf cuticles for reducing moisture loss.
As houseplants, Sansevieria thrive on warmth and bright light, but will also tolerate shade. They can rot from over-watering, so it is important that they are potted in well-drained soil, and not over-watered. They need to be re-potted or split at the root from time to time because they will sometimes grow so large that they break the pot they are growing in.
Air purification
Like the Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans), Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure forsick building syndrome. Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants.
Feng Shui
According to feng shui, because the leaves of Sansevieria grow upwards, the plants can be used for feng shui purposes. Some believe that having Sansevieria near children (such as in the study room) helps reduce coarseness, while others recommend placing pots near the toilet tank to counter the drain-down vibrations.
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1. Cedrus atlantica «Glauca Pendula»
2. Juniperus chinensis «Blue Alps»
3. Abies bornmuelleriana «Compacta»
They are Conifers.
Conifers are a diverse group of plants, ranging from tiny dwarf specimens to the tallest trees known. They date back to a time before flowering plants existed. They are mainly cone-bearing plants, the cones may appear to be like tiny berries or enormous cones that can be lethal if one lands on your head.
They are mostly evergreen and often have narrow needle-like leaves or leaf-scales. The foliage comes in a colour in tones of greens, blues and yellows. Some are variegated and some are a different colour in winter and summer.
Also, we have indoor plants.
Growing Conditions:
Light: Relatively bright light.
Water: Allow the plants to dry between waterings, but not completely. These are more susceptible to root rot, so be very careful never to allow them to sit in water.
Temperature: They thrive between 65ºF and 80ºF. They will suffer if it gets too cold and cannot tolerate freezing.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: They have a lower need for fertilizer, so fertilizer lightly at the beginning of spring or twice a year with controlled-release fertilizer.
Propagation:
D. marginata roots easily from root tip cuttings—so easily that it’s often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers. It takes about three weeks for a cutting to sprout roots, and rooting hormone isn’t generally necessary.
Sometimes called umbrella plants, the schefflera (Schefflera actinophylla) is a popular houseplant that tolerates a lot of neglect and still thrives. Scheffleras are native to Australia and the Pacific Islands where they grow to more than 30 feet tall, have multiple trunks and foliage only at the top of the tree, according to the Australian Native Plants Society. In the home, pruning the schefflera will keep it compact and within a reasonable height.
Step 1
Place the schefflera in an area of the home that receives bright light, but not direct sun. The temperature should be between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Water the schefflera when the soil is dry. Add only enough water to the soil to barely moisten it.
Step 3
Fertilize the schefflera once every two months with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength during the winter. Water the soil before fertilizing.
Step 4
Prune the schefflera to produce more foliage on the lower portions of the plant. Stalks without leaves can be cut to within 3 to 4 inches of the soil. Cut stalks with foliage to just below the lowest one. This may force the schefflera to produce foliage lower on the stalk.
Blooming Time: Only very old trees will produce this plant's inconspicuous creamy-white flowers.
Culture: Beaucarnea recurvata need full sun to light shade, with a well drained soil mix. We use a soil mix consisting of 2 parts loam to 1 part peat moss to 2 parts sand. To this mix, we add small gravel to ensure good drainage. In a container, they are very slow growing and very drought tolerant. We water ours every 3 weeks during the growing season and fertilize it only once during this period. During the winter months, the plants are watered only enough to keep the foliage from wilting (this usually equates to 1 dose of water during the winter). Over-watering is the single most frequent cause of failure when growing Beaucarneas.
Propagation: Beaucarnea recurvata are propagated by the removal of offsets and by seed. Seed is sown in the spring and will germinate at 68° F (20° C).
Ficus microcarpa is found in many different varieties when it is derived from seedling stock. Seedlings of microcarpa vary widely in leaf size, color, texture, bark color as well as the inherited tendency to form large fleshy turnip-like roots.
A typical Ginseng Ficus plant has two or more large roots that have been elevated above the soil level to create what appears to be a trunk and then a cluster of branches arising out of the roots. A foliage canopy is perched over the roots to finish off the bonsai.
The elevated roots can look like human legs or animals or many other possible things. Those who purchase these plants are often fascinated by the myriad of puzzling forms exhibited by the roots. Others seem puzzled by how to shape these into more traditional looking bonsai with a trunk and typical branching patterns.
One possibility to try if you wish a conventional looking bonsai is to repot the tree moving the large fleshy roots to parallel the soil surface and then covering most of the horizontal roots with soil to conceal the major bulk of the roots below soil level. Expose only some of the surface of the roots to create an elegantly large rootage.
If the large roots are removed and only the fine roots are allowed to remain, these fine roots will enlarge over time to recreate the same problem.
Probably the best approach is to simply enjoy the tree for its unusual and unique features.
Light
· Ginseng ficus trees thrive in warm, tropical and subtropical weather. They grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zone 10 and Zone 11, according to the University of Florida. Ginseng ficus trees can grow in full sun, partial sun or partial shade, but they will not grow well in full shade. As bonsai, this species of ficus will tolerate low-light levels better than most types of ficus plants, but it will grow best if exposed to as much bright sunlight as possible.
Soil and Water
· Ginseng ficus trees can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, including both acidic and alkaline soils, as long as they are well-drained. They can also grow in moderately salty soils. These trees can withstand drought conditions and do not usually need supplemental watering. Indoor container trees prefer to be watered only when the soil dries out.
Fertilizer
· Ginseng ficus trees should only be fed during the active growing season, according to the Bonsai4me website. Stop feeding in the winter or if the plant is showing signs of illness, such as dropped leaves or wilting. Fertilize these trees with a balanced (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) or nitrogen-rich, water-soluble fertilizer twice a month.
Maintenance
· Pruning is necessary to maintain a strong support structure for the large, wide canopy of the tree, according to the University of Florida. These trees are known for their ability to recover from even severe pruning, which is another reason why they are often chosen as bonsai. Outdoor trees should be trained to one leader (trunk) and monitored for broken branches and suckers, which should be removed. Bonsai trees should be shaped according to the grower's particular preferences. Indoor ginseng ficus trees should be monitored for common indoor plant pests such as spider mites and gnats, which won't hurt the tree but can become an annoyance.
Florarium
History of florarium goes into the 19 century. Then it was fashionable to plant ferns between window frames. Thus, the aristocracy ensured himself a great view from the window, instead of the dull gray of the streets.
What is florarium? Florarium - is a transparent vessel made of glass or plastic from plants. This may be a closed flower shop window with additional lighting, humidification and heating plants of tropical rain forest, and maybe just an old aquarium or big beautiful bottle, or some other closed container.
Now the fashion of Florarium returns. However, now they can grow to more exotic and demanding plants, as ferns. This was made possible thanks to modern technology (additional lighting adjustable heating and watering, spraying with fountains. In Florarium plants can easily create conditions close to their native climate: plants grow better, and less hassle for the florist. But the most important advantage of
Florarium - a decorative effect. Reproduced in miniature, a bright little world of the rainforest that were introduced into our homes, make an attractive and unique to any interior.
Having conceived the establishment of tropical jungle home, first think over, and draw a better style of an exotic world of the future. For a start see movies or pictures in the tropics of the world. Look at how plants grow in nature in the tropics, as combined in size, color, biological features. What elements of decor, besides the plant themselves, you will need: a variety of stones, driftwood, moss, bark coir, bamboo sticks, artificial insects, etc. In your decorative Florarium can contain plants from all over the planet, more importantly, that they live in harmony and have the same conditions. See how they harmonize with each other in color and texture of leaves, the height and size.
The most commonly used plants for Florarium: miniature Saintpaulia (mini - African violet), Fitonia, beautiful Orchids, Alocasia, Bromeliads, Azaleas, Cyclamen, Pilea, Selaginella, Ferns Ivy, Episcia, Dieffenbachia, and others can make a garden of Cactus (Succulent), but then it is not necessary to add moisture - loving plants.
Florarium can fit any aquarium or a glass jar of any size. Registration begins with the background. Background can be bought ready or do it yourself. Experienced florists manage to adhere to rear and side walls of mosses and epiphytes, or glued decorative pebbles, sand, seashells and more.
Then decorate the bottom: creating the landscape of future composition. Rocks, driftwood and sand, the key elements of the composition. Size, shape and color of these decorative elements of the composition. Size, shape and color of these decorative elements are unique. But do not forget about the hygiene of the future Florarium. It is these elements can be a source of dangerous plant fungi, bacteria and insects. Snags boil in a saturated solution of sodium chloride 8-12 hours, then boiled for 4-6 hours in ordinary water, changing it every hour. Stones, coarse sand and shells are also boiled in water for 2-3 hours. Then, from stones, driftwood and other decorative elements create a unique world that will delight you and amaze your guests. But we need to observe certain rules.
Layer of soil must be at least five or six inches. Primer is divided into decorative and nutritious. Nourishing the soil the plants will serve as a source of minerals and decorative to hide nutritious soil. Nourishing soil is chosen to meet the need of plants planted. If plants are planted directly into pots, then hiding ground under decorative ground will be easier, but planting in pots, doesn't always allow to reproduce the natural landscape. More pluses planting in pots, in this case it easier to change the location of plants in Florarium if the composition is very successful. If you still chose planting directly into the nutrient soil, located across the bottom of the Florarium, then there is one secret of how to mace a neat appearance when the nutrient is absolutely necessary, mix with a decorative ground: on top of the nutrient soil is placed polymer mesh with openings for planting, and just poured on a decorative ground. When changing the plants or other transplants, the plant gently gets through the hole, and plant something else: the extraction on the surface of the soil nutrient is the minimum. The latest stage of planting, is planting mosses and epiphytes on the snags.
Ones planted all the plants and their decorate colored ground, bring to perfection embellishment: decorate the landscape with stones, shells and other beauty. If Florarium has plants, it is desirable either to put it closer to the bright light but not direct sunlight, or - to place lamp directly above Florarium optimally - in the from of cover. Then you'll get a closed ecosystem, and the flowers will feel the best way.
Along with the technical equipment Florarium now popular and so-called "bottle gardens", which is nothing like plants, planted in bottle or other container in which is maintained higher humidity than ambient humidity of the vessel environment, but thus, no extra lights and heaters. True range of plants that can exist comfortably in conditions narrows.
These beautiful ornamental foliage plants make great houseplants, especially if displayed on bathroom shelves or bookshelves in shallow containers with their branches cascading down! Also wonderful when grown outdoors as plant fillers for garden beds or as groundcovers in tropical and warmer regions!
They are herbaceous perennial plants growing to 20-150 cm in height. The leaves are alternate on the stems, lanceolate to narrowly ovate, dark to medium green, 10-45 cm long and 4-16 cm broad, depending on the species. The flowers are relatively inconspicuous, white or greenish-white spathes that can give way to red berries.
The sap is poisonous to humans. It causes skin irritation. If ingested, the sap causes irritation of the mouth, lips, throat and tongue.
When you first receive your Venus Flytraps, if they were shipped bare root, carefully unwrap any packing material and soak the whole plant (leaves, roots and all) in only pure distilled water, collected rain water or reverse osmosis water (don't use tap water! it can easily damage the sensitive roots of Venus Flytraps) for 15 minutes to half an hour. If you don't yet have some distilled, reverse osmosis or rain water, just leave the plant(s) in the bag in a place away from direct sunlight for a while until you are able to obtain pure water, but open the bag momentarily for a fresh air change before closing the bag again.
Planting media — Until you learn what alternative planting media will also work, plant them in a mixture of 50% pure sphagnum peat moss and 50% silica sand or perlite. If you can't obtain sand that is composed of almost pure silica (such as sandblasting or pool filter sand and not river nor beach nor desert nor sandbox "play" sand), then use perlite instead of sand. Warning: do not use Miracle-Gro brand sphagnum peat moss nor perlite; they are "enriched" with plant food that may kill Venus Flytraps. If you're unable to find any suitable media for your plant locally, you can purchase Venus Flytrap planting soil from the store.
Planting container — Do not plant Venus Flytraps in terrariums or other clear containers or containers that have sides that extend several inches or more above the surface of the potting medium "soil," unless you plan to grow them completely out of direct sunlight with only fluorescent or other "grow lights"; direct sunlight entering through the clear sides of such containers can quickly heat both the soil and the air around the plant to such a degree that plants’ roots or leaves can easily be damaged or killed. Use glazed ceramic, plastic or insulating polyurethane foam planting containers that have a drainage hole and are at least 4 inches deep, and preferably 6-8 inches deep. You can plant several Venus Flytraps together in a larger container. Venus Flytraps like lots of depth for their roots and will grow larger and healthier with this extra room. Plant them so that the rhizome or "bulb" (the whitish, swollen part just above the roots) is buried into the planting medium while the green part of the leaves is above the surface.
Water
Use only rainwater, distilled water or reverse osmosis water. Venus Flytraps require very pure water. Your tap water is likely to be too high in dissolved solids—minerals and salts—that may kill a Venus Flytrap, possibly within weeks. Always keep your Venus Flytraps moist, but never soggy for long, and never dry. One way to accomplish this is to water thoroughly from the top or by allowing water to soak into the medium from the bottom through the drainage hole, and then allow the planting medium to dry until it is just moist before watering again. Although some people recommend it, I personally don't like to place Venus Flytrap containers in a tray of water for hours or days unless it's absolutely necessary to prevent them from drying out while unattended (such as when you are taking a vacation or trip for a few days). When Venus Flytraps are very wet, they should also be warm and in the sun. Wet and cold is unhealthy (just like it is for people) and can cause fungal infections, rot and even death.
Soil
Venus Flytraps must have a particular kind of soil that is poor in nutrients and slightly acidic. They will very likely die in "potting soil" or soil from your garden or yard. Their soil must be like the soil in their natural habitat: acidic and with almost no nutrients, moisture retentive but well drained. Until you learn what various types of ingredients you can have in their soil (from research on the Internet or from books, for example), it is best to use pure shagnum peat moss (no other kind of "moss") mixed with a more or less equal amount of silica sand (not beach or river or "play" sand) and/or perlite.
Sun
Venus Flytraps are sun lovers, and in general, the more direct bright sunlight you give them, the healthier they will be. However, if the sides of a planter become very hot in full sun, try to cool the planter so that the roots don't overheat or burn. One way to do this without depriving the Venus Flytrap of the sun it wants and needs, is to place the planting container inside another larger container, with perlite filling the space between the two to insulate the inside container. Another way is to plant the Venus Flytrap in a styrofoam container (like a 16 or 20 ounce insulated beverage cup) or in a polyurethane foam planter.
Fertilizer
No! Never! Although experienced growers can occasionally fertilize Venus Flytraps lightly using special techniques such as foliar feeding, Venus Flytraps will probably die when fertilized by beginner growers, for the same reason that they usually die from tap water: too many minerals and chemicals. These burn the plants' roots and kill them. Venus Flytraps get all the nutrition they need from the sun (through photosynthesis like any plant) and from the insects they catch. If they are healthy and if you put them outside sometimes to "hunt," they will catch insects on their own. You can also feed them captured flies or other insects (but not meat!). It helps to place a captured fly in a glass bottle that is very cold for a few minutes to make the fly lethargic. Use tweezers to hold the drowsy fly by a wing, then place the fly in a trap and move it a little to stimulate the trigger hairs near the middle of the trap, which should cause a healthy trap to close. Don't close the traps over and over again, because each trap must grow a very particular way to be able to close, and can only snap shut a few times (perhaps half a dozen) before it won't respond anymore.
Venus Flytraps must have a rest period of a few months every year. When the days become shorter and cooler in the Fall, the plants begin to slow down, not grow as much, and the traps begin to be sluggish. During dormancy Venus Flytraps should be kept cool. Although the plants can survive light frosts and brief freezing, it is better to keep them above freezing: 40°F to about 55°F degrees at night is sufficiently cool, and they can be warmer at times during the day, but should be cool to cold most of the time. An unheated porch or garage can work for most people. Venus fly traps should not be watered nearly as often because they don't need nor use as much water during their dormancy. Carefully cut off any traps that turn black. This is natural. Venus Flytrap leaves, like all plants' leaves, eventually die and are replaced by fresh leaves in time. During dormancy a healthy Venus Flytrap can look almost dead on top, but assuming it has not dried out completely nor rotted from too much water, it is healthy and will begin to grow vigorously again sometime in the Spring. At that time it will appreciate being placed in warmer conditions and watered more frequently again.
Typically, hard leaved Sansevieria originate from arid climates, while the soft leaved species originate from tropical and subtropical regions. Hard leaved Sansevieria have a number of adaptations for surviving dry regions. These include thick, succulent leaves for storing water and thick leaf cuticles for reducing moisture loss.
As houseplants, Sansevieria thrive on warmth and bright light, but will also tolerate shade. They can rot from over-watering, so it is important that they are potted in well-drained soil, and not over-watered. They need to be re-potted or split at the root from time to time because they will sometimes grow so large that they break the pot they are growing in.
Air purification
Like the Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans), Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure forsick building syndrome. Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants.
Feng Shui
According to feng shui, because the leaves of Sansevieria grow upwards, the plants can be used for feng shui purposes. Some believe that having Sansevieria near children (such as in the study room) helps reduce coarseness, while others recommend placing pots near the toilet tank to counter the drain-down vibrations.
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