It belongs to the Oncidium Group. Oncidiums’ large pseudobulbs and profuse roots make them prone to rot and yet during the growing season they should be watered frequently. Striking the balance between keeping the plant adequately hydrated and dry all while avoiding root rot makes caring for orchids in the Oncidium genus challenging.
Light: This is one of the few orchids that actually thrives on a few hours of direct sunlight each day. Oncidiums’ sun tolerance puts the other orchid types to shame. Put plant in an east or west facing, window (preferable with a sheer or Venetian blind covering it) where it can soak up the sun’s indirect but abundant rays. Dark green leaves indicate inadequate light exposure.
Temperature: This group is classified as intermediate to warm, meaning that the plants can withstand 55° at night and 85° in the day. Oncidiums have been known to tolerate temperatures as high as 100° if there is sufficient air movement (a gentle fan preempts several orchid diseases and even pest infestation).
Water: Rather than watering by a weekly schedule, physically check the plant. Refrain from watering until potting mix is dry half way through. Check water levels by pushing a popsicle stick or bamboo skewer into the mix and checking the end to see if it’s wet or not. This frequency could wind up being every other day (during growing season) to once a week or every two weeks (dormancy). Water Oncidium less during summer dormancy. Keep in mind that plump pseudo bulbs indicate a healthy, adequately watered plant, where shriveled bulbs indicate a need for more water.
Fertilizer: If plant is in bark (which is typical), use high-nitrogen (30-10-10) during growing season. Otherwise use a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20). That said: rather than fertilizing weekly as you would with Phalaenopsis, fertilize every other week in half-strength and make sure to flush the fertilizer with clear water once a month. Fertilize more during sunny conditions which lead to photosynthesis and more energy use by the plant. The bigger the plant, the more fertilizer needed.
Growth: Fast-growing.
Blooming: While they can vary, Oncidium orchid blooms from August to September. Blooms last for up to two months.
Oncidium orchid care throughout its life cycle
The life cycle of the Oncidium orchid includes:
flowering phase: September to November in the northern hemisphere,
growing phase: December to June
dormancy: July to August
Flowering Phase Oncidium Care — Sept - November
What’s happening: A large plant can produce six or seven branched sprays of Oncidium flowers. En mass, the “dancing ladies” appear to be a crowd of butterflies.
What to do: Watch for aphids on rising stems. If they appear, spray with insecticidal soap. Aphids love Oncidiums. Fertilize and water regularly. This recipe for Insecticidal Soap for Oncidium Orchids is inexpensive and effective. If insects do invade Oncidiums outdoors, use ProPlants’ Orchid Diseases, Fungus and Pests Symptoms and Solutions Chart to quash them before they get established. Putting the pot on a stand rather than directly on the ground helps keep bugs under control, too.
Growing Phase (Post-Bloom) Oncidium Orchid Care – December - June
What’s happening? Flowers fade and drop from the stem. Leaves start their growing period.
What to do: Let flowers drop from the stem on their own. Wait until stem is fully dead and brown before removing it as it may bloom again. Fertilize Oncidium every two weeks at half or quarter strength during the growing season with either a balanced 20-20-20 mix or if in a bark mix use high nitrogen 30-10-10.
Care of Oncidium Orchids When Dormant – July - August
What’s happening: Orchid leaves stop growing so that plant energy can focus on roots instead. Growth starts again at the end of the rest phase with a stem sprouting from the plant, signaling returned need for fertilizer and water.
What to do: Water once a week and fertilize once a month.
Repotting the Oncidium
What’s happening? Any Oncidium that wilts, falls over in the pot, grows over pot edges or has pale or wrinkled leaves should be repotted. All of these signs indicate that the roots are not absorbing water or nutrients sufficiently. New potting mix cures these issues.
Best to repot when roots on new pseudobulbs are one inch long.
Wet or damp rot on the leaves indicates a virus called orchid black rot. The grower must repot AND trim the plant of all decaying material to save it.
What to do:
Materials: sharp, sterilized scissors or secateurs; pot just one inch larger than original (“over-potting” can reduce bloom initiation and growth). Use a clay pot to increase air flow and minimize chance of rot that can plague the Oncidium. Plastic pots retain too much moisture. Use small fir bark for Oncidium potting mix, as your plant is likely to have fine roots. Filling 20% of Oncidium pot space with sphagnum moss will help with water retention.
Pull the orchid from the pot. Shake loose the potting mix. Toss old, depleted potting mix. If orchid roots are clinging to inside of pot, soak the plant in its pot in water. You can also hammer off a clay pot or cut a plastic one.
Trim any dead or rotting roots with sterilized blade. Never use blade on another plant without re-sterilizing. Trim dead, slimy or papery roots, leaving firm roots intact. If you have an abundance of dead or sick roots, trim them all off and re-pot in a smaller pot.
Create a cone of potting mix in the new pot along one side. Arrange Oncidium roots over this. Push plant to one side so that plant has room to create another “lateral” growth.
Fill in rest of pot with potting mix, working material between roots. Fill pot just to the base of the plant where the roots start. Do not cover stem with potting mix.
Stabilize plant with a stakes and ties if need be.
Water lightly.
The Oncidium Outdoors
Oncidium thrive outdoors in humid climates, as long as temperatures don’t fall below 55°. When outdoors, however, don’t lose track of the plant; make sure the right level of moisture is maintained at all times. Oncidiums can tolerate some direct sun, but not more than two or three hours, which still makes it more of a sunbather than its orchid cousins.
Oncidium Propagation and Division
The fast-growing Oncidium tends to create new pseudobulbs rather rapidly (within a year). Once your pot is home to six or more of these pseudobulbs feel free to divide the plant. Leave 3 growths in each pot and make sure roots are somewhat snug. Work new potting mix in between roots. With consistent care, you’ll be able to divide the plant again next year!
Oncidium Orchid Origin
Found naturally from sea level in the tropics to high elevations in the Andes, the Oncidium orchid withstands more sunlight than the Paphiopedilum or the Phalaenopsis. In fact, growers often advise those aiming to put orchids in a sunny spot to stick with the Oncidium or Dendrobium. Nevertheless, the plant’s propensity to get root rot makes it one of the harder orchids to care for. Those brave enough to let the plant get dry halfway through the pot before watering will have the best success.
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