Sarcochilus Fitzgeraldii 'Lorraine'

Just recently I've purchased Sarcochilus Fitzgeraldii 'Lorraine' with two other orchids, Dendrochilum Tenellum and Neofinetia (Vanda) falcata. I'm so exited right now and afraid at the same time. Exited because these kinds of orchids you don't see often, and afraid because I don't want to kill them. Even though, I'm not a beginner anymore but still losing some plants. So, to find out how to grow Sarcochilus I looked at some old American Orchid Society's magazines.

And, here is an article >>

SARCOCHILUS can be grown with a variety of companion -plant orchids, among Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium and Promenaea. Hybrids  generally have fewer specific cultural requirements, and this probably accounts for the wide range of reported companions. With Sarcochilus  , the most commonly grown hybrids usually have an infusion of Sarco. hartmannii, a species that is relatively easy to grow. When making a selection, beginners might start with  Sarco. hartmannii  or one of its easy grown and commonly found hybrids, amongthem Sarco. Fitzhart (hartmannii x fitzgeraldii),  Sarco. Heidi  (hartmannii x fitzhart), and Sarco.Melba (hartmannii x falacatus). 
It is worthwhile to check the parentage for a hint on how to grow the plants successfully. In nature, Sarcochilus species grow on trees of substrate.

• Lithophytes, such as Sarco. hartmannii, Sarco.fitzgeraldii and Sarco. ceciliae, grow on rock faces or crevices, usually with a little organic matter.(This is similar to the way that Phragmipedium besseae grows in Ecuador) The plants tolerate cooler temperatures and do the best with 60 percent or more humidity. Many growers in the warmer regions of Australia water in the evening to cool the plants and to make sure they are well hydrated before the heat sets in the next day. Because they are lithophytes, they adapt easily to the pot culture. Growers in warmer areas use clay pots with plenty of drainage. The clay helps keep the roots from becoming soggy and cools them. In the north and in Canada , plants do better in clear plastic pots with extra drainage holes. Most growers use a  mix or gravel, lava rock, expanded clay pellets or some such open medium combined in a 50:50 mix with bark, charcoal or large sponge rock.
• Epiphytes drow on trees in the same way that cattleyas do. Sarco.falacatus is a good example. these epiphytus can be grown in pots in a medium that is porous, as with the lithophytes, and not mushy. the pots should have extra side-drainage holes. The plants can also be grown mounted. Mounts, however, need a constant  source of humidity. These first two groups - lithophytes and epiphytes - should not dry completely.
• Twig epiphytes occur on thin branches of small trees or bushes. The roots grow along the twig without organic matter. This group is the least tolerant og pot culture. Usually the plants are grown on mounts, but with high humudity. Sarcochilus australis and Sarco. dilatatus are the driest growing of the group. The twig epiphytes are usually better left to expert growers, who have the patience and skills necessary to cater to their needs. Twig epiphytes Sarcochilus  can suffer from sudden death after growing well for a few years. Some Australians have suggested these twig epiphytes  are not meant to live long because they grow on fraigle twigs. 

All these groups benefit from air movement; in the summer it helps to cool them and in the winter it keeps them from developing fungal infections. As with most orchids, they do best with water with a low mineral content. Fertilizer should be reduced slightly in the winter if growing conditions are cool and increased as vegetative growth starts in the spring. However, if you are growing in a house with relatively constant temperatures summer and winter, you need not to reduce fertilizer as much.
They are tolerant of winter lows to 50F (10C) and summer highs to 90F (32C), although they do better when kept cooler. Growth is good when temperatures are kept in the 60sF (16-21C) and 70s F (21-26C) but slows at high temperatures.
All three groups do best in light that would be appropriate for brighter-grown phalaenopsis or cattleyas needing moderate light. A good location might be on humid-and-cool basement light stand or in a cool east window (but not over a heat duct blowing hot dry air) Like all genera, the species vary within a group. Sarcochilus Fitzgeraldii is the least tolerant of high light, while the diminutive Sarco. ceciliae, is most tolerant.
Neville Roper of Woollamia, New South Wales, suggests repotting in the autumn, although this is the peack time for blooming.

Jean Allen-Ikeson
AOS, SARCOCHILUS. Species and Hybrids, 2011


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