Cymbidium

According to the website THE PLANT BLOG,  of all the orchid genera, the Cymbidium orchid is one of the easier to care for, particularly if you want your orchids outside for much of the year. Because most commercially available Cymbidium orchids are terrestrials, they must have special, loose media to grow in. Typically, they thrive in a medium or fine fir bark mix or a specified Cymbidium potting mix. While this guide provides specific tips for one orchid, make sure to review Orchid Care Guide for All Types which provides general orchid care instruction relevant to Cymbidiums.
Cymbidium Care Basics              
These quick tips are followed by more in-depth information about pruning and propagating Cymbidium orchids as well as specific care instructions for each phase of its life cycle.
Light: Cymbidium orchid light requirements include: morning sun or afternoon sun, with protection from the hot mid-day sun. A light-green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates the maximum amount of sun the plant can take, and a dark-green leaf indicates not enough sun.

Temperature: Cymbidiums will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures –between 50-65°F. Cold weather, even down to 30°F for a few hours a time or two, will not damage an acclimatized plant. But once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35°F. Regardless, plants should always be kept free of frost.  

Water: Watering should be done frequently, sometimes twice per week during the summer months. Fertilize during 3 out of 4 of those irrigations. Always keep potting soil moist, but not wet or soggy. Decrease watering Cymbidium and increase air circulation during the dark periods.

Fertilizer: High-nitrogen fertilizers should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers should be used from August until January. Use high nitrogen (30-10-10) fertilizer, but mix it only half-strength. Use a low fertilizer (6-6-30) diluted to ½ strength September through January. Keep in mind the specialized Cymbidium fertilizer is available in many garden stores.

Growth: Cymbidiums may not get very much taller, but more leaves and pseudobulbs will grow.

Blooming: From late December through May and last one to three months.

Re-potting Cymbidium 
Re-pot Cymbidium every two to three years from February to June with a well-draining medium. Fine bark is suitable in mild summer climates, while a finer medium such as Super Orchid Mix works well in warmer summer areas.
What’s happening:  While Cymbidiums actually like to be crowded, when the potting material has deteriorated, shoots hang out over edge of pot or the pot actually splits, it’s time to move the plant to a bigger pot. This typically occurs every two years.

What to do:  Only repot in spring after blooming. Consider separating Cymbidiums into separate pots if you want to give plants away or start a new batch in a new area. Water new Cymbidium potting mix thoroughly and drain it before starting the repotting process. Never repot an orchid in a pot more than one inch larger than the original. A large pot may inhibit future blooms.

Materials: medium or fine fir bark; clay pot just one inch larger than original (“over-potting” can reduce bloom initiation and growth); Clay pots allow for more aeration than plastic and the Cymbidium needs to dry out. Use sharp, sterilized scissors or secateurs.

Moisten your potting mix
Gently pull the plant from the original pot and shake all potting mix from roots.
Trim dead or damaged roots.
Work apart roots under pseudobulbs if you plan to divide the plant. When cutting through roots, including a “back bulb,” a bulb without a leaf, along with two or three bulbs with leaves. While pseudobulbs divided and planted singly will continue growing, you won’t have a flower that year.
Create a cone of potting mix in the pot or pots.
Gently arrange the roots around this cone.
Fill the rest of the container with the mix, working it between the roots.

Fertilize and water, allowing to drain.

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