Recently, we had a Christmas potluck party in the VOS. Usually, we organize an auction among the members and guests. Everyone who want to donate to the society brings something to the auction. The practice showed that the most valuable things in the action are Wines, Orchids, other plants, and everything that related to growing plants. This time I bought a bottle of a Spain Wine, a set of fans (2 pcs) and an Orchid. So, do not forget about the culture of this plant I`ve got this information in the AOS website.
The Large-Flowered, Cool-Growing Coelogynes
Coelogyne comprises about 196 species (World Checklist of Monocotyledons, 2009). Most of the species are easy to grow and produce long-lasting, fragrant flowers and should be much more popular with hobbyists, especially the large flowered cooler growing species as fuel cost rise.
Coelogyne species are distributed from India through Southeast Asia, southwest China, the Philippines and the islands of Indonesia to as far east as New Guinea and islands of the southern and eastern Pacific. Those that have particularly attracted our attention are the cool-growing species from the Himalayan region of India and Southeast Asia. The climate is such that species originating here are best grown using a program of benign neglect during winter. Heating bills are, therefore, low because these plants neither require nor want warm temperatures. In addition, their greatly reduced need for water in winter provides growers with opportunities to be away for several weeks without having to worry about care for their collections.
Basic Cultural Needs
Coelogyne cristata, Coelogyne mooreana and Coelogyne mossiae (as well as the hybrid Coelogyne Unchained Melody) are among the largest-flowered in the genus and are discussed here. We will first consider their common cultural requirements and then take a closer look at their specific needs.
Humidity
Humidity should be high all year, 85% in summer to early fall, decreasing to 60-70% in early winter. The driest time of the year is late winter and early spring, before the summer monsoon starts, but conditions in the mountain habitats are probably not as dry as indicated by the data from low-elevation weather stations.
Water
An understanding of the general weather pattern in the habitat may help answer that frequently asked question, “How often should I water?” In their native habitat, the summer monsoon brings four to six months of extremely heavy rainfall. This is followed by a cool, dry winter monsoon, which also last s for several months. Although skies are generally clear and rainfall is low in winter over most f the region, habitats in the higher mountains are often bathed in fog and most for much of the year. Moss covers nearly everything in this moist environment. Cultivated coelogynes from this region should be watered heavily while actively growing, with little if any drying allowed between waterings. Water should then be gradually reduced after new growths have matured in the fall and limited in winter to occasional light waters or early morning mistings. More water should be given if the tip of the youngest leaves start to die back or if the pseudobulbs show signs of excessive shriveling. The leaves on the older pseudobulbs may naturally die during this time, but he tips of those on the newest growths should remain green. Likewise, slight shriveling should occur on the newest pseudobulbs. Too much shriveling indicates a need for more water and no shriveling at all indicates that the plant may not bloom because of too much water. Increase water gradually in spring after new roots begin to grow.
Fertilizer
A balanced fertilizer mixed at one-quarter strength to one-half of the recommended strength should be applied weekly during period of active growth. Many growers recommend using a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus during the late summer and fall to promote better blooming the next season and to allow the new growths to harden before winter. In order to prevent salt buildup, leach the medium every few weeks during periods of heavier fertilizer applications. This is especially important in areas with hard water. Leaching is performed by first watering the plant normally, Then, an hour or so later, after accumulated salts have had a chance to dissolve, flush the medium with water equal to about twice the volume of the pot.
Growing Media
Plants may be mounted on cork or tree-fern slabs if humidity is high and plants are watered several times a day during hot, bright weather. However, most growers find it difficult to keep mounted plants moist enough in summer. Plants are usually grown in shallow pots or baskets filled with a porous medium through which water drains quickly. Fine to medium grade fir bark or tree-fern fiber is often used alone or mixed with varying amounts of additives such as charcoal, perlite or chopped sphagnum moss. We have had good success using baskets made from ¼ inch (6mm) mesh hardware cloth lined with a layer of coconut fiber or sphagnum moss. Our medium includes equal parts of fine and medium grade tree-fern fiber with about 10% fine charcoal, 10% perlite or sponge rock and 10% chopped sphagnum added. In our growing conditions, with strong air movement, this combination allows for more frequent watering without the medium's becoming soggy or drying completely between waterings. The tree-fern fiber does not break down as rapidly as fir bark, which means repotting is required less often. If the plant outgrows the basket, it can be hauled out en masse and merely placed in a larger basket without disturbing the roots. This can be an important consideration because many coelogynes do not like to be disturbed and may sulk for two or three years after repotting or dividing. Some growers suggest that thinning old pseudobulbs by cutting them out may be preferable to repotting as long as the medium has not broken down too far. When repotting is necessary, be sure it is done only when a flush of new root growth is starting. This will allow the plant to become re-established as rapidly as possible.
Miscellaneous Notes
Leaf-tip dieback may be a problem with many Coelogyne species and hybrids. While normally not fatal, it does cause unsightly plants and is usually an indication of a cultural problem instead of disease. Underwatering may cause these symptoms as may excessively low humidity. In most instances, however, the culprit is probably an excess of salt buildup in the medium that may be remedied by flushing the medium as previously discussed. These same symptoms may also be caused by root rot resulting from too much water, usually with old, broken-down medium. If uncertain as to the problem, the best action is to remove the plant from its container and check the condition of the roots. If everything is in good shape, the plant may be replaced in its container none the worse for the experience. Root rot is indicated if roots are soft and brown, and the root-ball will probably fall apart as it is removed form the container or basket. If this happens, it is obviously past time to repot. Because the plant is already out of the container, the grower is presented with a wonderful opportunity to remove the old medium, clean up and treat the diseased portion of the plant, repot is using new medium and a clean pot, and make a vow to never again wait too long to repot.
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