Africa’s Disa Orchid

This Disa uniflora 'Pink'  is Africa’s Disa Orchid. 
Despite my promises do not buy any new plants, because of our vacation and moving to another place, I bought it ... But how I could resist? look at this gorgeous plant!!
Disa orchids are native of South Africa. The most commonly grown is Disa uniflora (which was found on Table Mountain near Capetown). The Disas in this group, and their hybrids, are typically evergreen and are tuber based. They produce flowers borne on 7-15 inch tall stems carrying 3 or more flowers up to 3 inches across. Flowering normally begins in late spring to late summer (depending on cross), and blooms vary between pale yellow and deep crimson (including the most vibrant red to be found in any orchid!)

If you type Disa Orchid on Google search, you will find that they are indeed quite rare and difficult to obtain, even for a collector. By using different computer search engines, you will find that there is a growing interest in these orchids worldwide.

LIGHTING & AIR

Disas like plenty of light, (not strong) and must be given some shading during the harsh late spring – summer months, eg. 30-60% shading. They prefer early morning or late afternoon. These orchids also enjoy a good air flow (as do most orchids) and can thrive if kept outdoors during spring, summer, and autumn. I have also kept them out during the winter months, taking them in when the temperature dropped below 0 deg. C. Just place in your fridge until the temperature outside goes above freezing. Disas can be grown indoors, but should be kept on the cool side (below 75F) and protected from the sun by the use of sheer curtain (a southern exposure is never advised)

WATERING

Disas like a goog supply of fresh water all year round and must be kept moist at all times! IMPORTANT USE DISTILLED or RAINWATER ONLY. Some growers have used bottled spring water, but I’ve never tried it. Collecting rainwater is fairly easy using inexpensive 5 gallon plastic containers, rain gutter downspouts or plastic sheeting angled towards the containers (even pail) opening.

FEEDING

Plant food should also be used to promote healthy growth. Miracle-Gro plant food (contains iron & zinc) can be used at 1.25ml. per gallon of distilled or rainwater. Feed once every two weeks during the growing season.  Flush well with clear water if you see salt deposits building.

TIPS

• ·        Plants grow very well in coconut fibre purchased in brick form and rehydrated with rain or distilled water.  Place  fibre brick in 2 gallon pail, and add one gallon water (should be enough for repotting 6-7 plans in 4-5 inch pots).
• ·        Disas should never dry out
• ·        After orchid blooms, the old plant will start to die back in the fall, keep planting medium moist, as a tuber is forming below that will grow in the early spring!
• ·        If you want to try other growing composts, they can be found on many internet sites.
• ·        Divide multiple plants (you can get up to 5 or more new plants from just one plant, in one year) that are growing in one pot, in the fall or early spring, water well before repotting.
• ·        Mist work area so that the tender small plants to not dry out when repotting.
• ·        Aphids must be removed from flower buds (at all stages) or damage to flowers will result.
• ·        Buy pots that have small drainage holes on the botton only, as plant will try to grow from side holes in pots. These orchids send out long root-like trailers in the wind, along rocky river banks, in search of  a place for a new plant to grow. When this shoot finds soil and light together, a new plant will grow even it that means the bottom drainage hole on the side of your pot.
• ·        85% of the shoots that will form a new plant (mentioned above) form on the top of the pot near the side, which is perfect.

Also, lets talk about Diseases and Pests. (This information I've got here OSCOV)

The greatest cause of disa mortality is fungal or bacterial rot, which usually attacks either the crown or the base of the plant. Good culture helps to reduce its incidence. Old black or brown leaves should be removed regularly. Our disas are sprayed two or three times each year, except during the flowering season, with the systemic fungicides Fongarid®, Previcur® or Bavistin®. This procedure helps to reduce the incidence of rot but does not eliminate it entirely. I consider annual losses of 20% to be acceptable, bearing in mind the rapidity with which disas multiply. Annual repotting in fresh moss seems to minimise rot, possibly because Sphagnum moss itself has anti-fungal properties. Unlike cymbidiums and many other genera, disas do not seem to be vulnerable to plant viruses.

Slugs and snails are not a problem when the tray system of watering is used. Caterpillars can be controlled with Carbaryl dust. I kill aphis infestations with Orthene®; the spray does not affect either buds or flowers. Because of the high humidity due to the damp moss, spider mites (red spider) are no bother.

Why Did My Disa Die? 

After they have killed their first plant or two, many growers become disillusioned with disas. There are three main reasons why these plants died: 

1. They were allowed to become dry. 

2. They were watered with chlorinated or hard water. 

3. They were heavily fertilised.

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